Decisions, Decisions…

With a few different friends traveling North and South for a Thanksgiving weekend getaway, a choice had to be made on which way to pack up and point the van. After a rather short deliberation which included some homework with a AAA map, weather reports, swell models, and current sea surface temperature chart the best option became clear. Light winds, good weather, warm water and favorable swell were all coming together and we knew right where to be.

Among the quiver of boards we brought with us, the best suited for what the conditions provided were the ones with low rocker, wide templates, and plenty of paddle power to fight the relentless sweeping current. I enjoyed wearing a longsleeve spring suit and mostly rode a Siegel, Pooh Surfboards 5′ 6″ twin fin fish and 7’2″ Stu Kenson diamond tail single-fin.

Here’s Alex Marjanovic laying into a nice long wall and throwing a bucket with his fish.

Brian Grover found some really nice lines on his Firewire and connected this one all the way inside.


La Policía Nacional de Panamá

Travel in a third world country can easily put you on edge. Roads without signs, 6’ wide potholes, and ever-lingering policia are all contributing factors. Having 12 surfboards stacked on the roof doesn’t exactly lend a low profile either.

 Policia in Panama

We found ourselves on day one heading from Panama City to a lava rock right-hand point break in Santa Catalina about 6 hours away. On the main highway they had police set up every 5 kilometers or so keeping an eye on things. A few hours passed with no worries until one of the badges decides to flag us over. Fortunately, he had great English and told us we were going 95k in and 80k zone. It’s funny how he could pinpoint our exact rate of travel with no radar gun. Nonetheless, “lo siento, amigo”, was our response.

Balboa Beer

He took his time and with some theatrics explained that driving the speed limit is important to him because there are many people walking on the side of the road and it was his job to keep them safe. After threatening us with a $100 fine, we came to an agreement. He spends all day in a full uniform watching cars passing by standing in the hot sun in one of the most humid places in the world; it’s a tough gig. What a better way to relax and cool off than one of Panamas national beers, the Balboa?

Reaching into our freshly stocked up ice chest, we passed him the coldest beer ever and threw in a Gatorade for good measure. Off we went; no harm, no fine, and a new friend made.


Local Surf Trips: IB

San Diego Surf Trips

Living in a place like San Diego we are constantly reminded of how blessed we are to be able to enjoy this environment of great weather and ample surf. When the South Swell pumps in the summer we like to drive South of the big Bay and find empty tee-pees scattered across a long beach strand. The line up and rip current were more than manageable and there was more than enough surf on tap!

Mexico Just a few miles away

This is a very special place, mainly because it is one of the most South facing beaches in South San Diego County and also because it is the last main town in California before you hit the Mexican border. It is filled with vibrant Latino culture and Surf history. If you venture down be respectful. Like you do when you travel anywhere and you’re not a local.

Here are a few pictures from out latest trip South:

Imperial Beach Surf Stan Harbaugh

Stanton Slaughtering

Imperial Beach Surf Logan Brown

Logan lining one up


Surfing Vicariously: Nicaragua – III

This is the last installment of Surfing Vicariously: Nicaragua…for now. The crew here at localshapers.com booked tickets to Panama and will be provide the next episode of Surfing Vicariously. For now, check out the last round from our friend Ricky. Enjoy!


Surfing Vicariously: Nicaragua – Part II

The waves have been pretty mellow the last few days here in San Diego, leading us to wanderlust and planning trips abroad. To ease our woes, we can enjoy some more frothy glory shots from our buddy Ricky down in Nica.

Offshores and hefty air sections? Yes please. Summertime grovel has us itching to get out of San Diego, and with shots like this filtering in, we won’t be able to take it too much longer.